Been working with LocoFi since the beginning of this 2020, first with the original module and then the 2nd Gen. The latter is installed in an older Athearn GP9, the former in an old Bachmann F9. After many emails (and always timely replies) from the LocoFi team, I got things running OK (video provided). But my crazy home network (two Access Points, Multiple Networks), caused all kind of havoc. After some rework, finally got the network simpler and with better coverage (3 WAPs, One SSID) and this morning brought both Loco's back on the layout. They started right up, no problems with the app (on Kindle Fire HD8) locating them. All seems good. My only issue is that they both run slower at top speed that they did in old DC mode. Now I have not done any calibrations with the speed settings (my laziness), that could be one issue. I'm also wondering if the older motors in these two engines just draw more power than the modules can deliver (at max throttle). My DC transformers can supply more than 12V to the track; but my clean power DC power pack for the LocoFI is clearly 12V (as measured by the multimeter). It's on my agenda to install a 3rd module in a newer (DCC Ready) loco, but have been sidelined lately accumulating a bunch of steam locomotives (LocoFI for steam would be a nice option).😀
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Hello Ken, It indeed looks like a challenging install. Thanks for sharing the details. We appreciate it. It should certainly help others looking for a similar install. Also, looking forward to seeing the conversion to deadrail. Best regards, LocoFiâ„¢ Team.
I should add that the power to track is provided by my ancient (2007) TCS SB3A DCC command station. Operation of existing DCC equipped locomotives is not affected and they will run at the same time as the LocoFi equipped F units even on the same tracks. Watch out as cornfield meets are possible......but I only have a tiny HO layout with a max track run of 14 feet so not really a problem for me.
There were several initial challenges in setting up my experiment with LocoFi. I used a Kato/Stewart F7 unit (now Bowser) as the test bed as it was not DCC ready but still had an isolated motor. It turned out the heavy diecast chassis was too tall and I had to remove the fan vent insert on the top of the locomotive shell to get the receiver to fit. I shaved the bottom of the plastic fan casting so it now clears the receiver and glued it in with canopy cement in case I need to use that access.
The Kato/Stewart unit is difficult to convert to LED lighting and I need to get a more amber glow LEDs anyway to simulate 1950's headlights. Also there is no need to use a backup light but I would want to use the 2nd headlight (it's and SP Unit) as a MARS light.
I chose an F unit diesel as my LocoFi trial unit as the steam setup is still in development and they are appropriate for my 1949-53 modeling timeframe. Also the B units can serve as locations for an Amrit Device and ultimately batteries for dead rail operation independent of track power.
Setup was a bit challenging as like most more recent US home WIFI routers my 2 year old router is dual band with both a 2.4 MHZ and 5 MHZ band. My preference for home WIFI is the 5 MHZ band and all devices such as my cellphones, notepads, printers and cameras are configured to use that band in my house. As the LocoFi receiver only works on the 2.4 MHZ band I had to set up another logical receiver on that band. Rather than switch my phone back and forth to the 2.4 MHZ band, I bought an inexpensive Fire Tablet and am using that for LocoFi communications with it configured to the 2.4 band.
Running under LocoFi
yes, I realized that the motor needs to be isolated regardless of where the module is placed. Some of the Steam Loco's I've seen would be a challenge for isolation (I'm looking at a split chassis Bachmann now - very ugly). Thanks again.
Thank you Steven for the kind words and sharing the video. It's our pleasure to be of service. We appreciate that you took the lead to be the first poster in the HO category.
The motor speed is proportional to the applied voltage. As you mentioned that your layout is now powered by a 12V DC power implies that only the max throttle delivers full 12V while lower notches deliver proportional average voltage. In the old DC mode, think of this as equivalent of a DC transformer that can deliver a max of 12V output.
It's in the works. Thank you for your patience. Please stay tuned!